Aro 10.4 in Macedonia i need help for parts and other stuff

[icemann]

yes but my new pump has 4 exits.. i dont understand how i should connect them..
my uncle that is mechanic says if it has good brakes ride it like it is.. but i am not quite sure coz i see a problem here..
btw i`ve bought hoses for the diff block but the pipe was not ok it has dirt in it and it doesnt flow air.. i will replace her easily but i dont get this diagram with my pump... i will have to change the pump with one with 2 exits.. right?

[Soryn]

No, you must close up one exit ,in the front of the phump,end mount the distribuitor like it was.
You have the diagram, show it to your uncle,end make him replace the lines like in the diagram.
Watch in heare how one front hole of the phump is closed up. http://www.aro4x4.net/smf/viewtopic.php ... 5&start=45

[icemann]

Should i open the distributor and try to fix it there was no air exiting from one hole on the front

[Soryn]

show a picture of it,end indicate witch hole exactly on the picture .for no confusion.
Downt open it yet,the spare rear line hole must be colosed in normal conditions.

[icemann]

show a picture of it,end indicate witch hole exactly on the picture .for no confusion.
Downt open it yet,the spare rear line hole must be colosed in normal conditions.

i will take a pic and show it to you.

[icemann]

brakes (2).jpg

ok so i think this is how i should connect the new pump with the BY-PASS ASSY. but there is one exit that doesnt have a pipe connected that one on my doesnt let air out.. what am i missing

[Soryn]

In the by pass asy hole with no use , it's closed up like the exit of the phump with an PURGING SCREW M 12x1

On the bendix phump, the front exit is for the rear brakes, end the rear 2 exis's ar for the front.
I downt know how the R19 phump work.
My cricuit it's built like in the diagram ,with an suplimentar presure limiter in the back, but it worked ok in the tests.

[icemann]

so you are saying that this may not work... and i need another limiter in the back to prevent the wheels from blocking.
i have good brakes but the back are blocking.. should i just put a limiter on the back?

[Soryn]

this is the weight presure limiter, when you load the car with somthing, the car rear axle moves a leaver ,end lets more presure from the master cilinder to the rear weel cilinder's.
when the car is unload ,just car base weight, the presure is limited by this weight presure limiter.

You removed this olsow? if so, you fuk't up real bad the brakes.
The car is not qoaite awsome ,but if you ar cutting down part's .

[icemann]

this is the weight presure limiter, when you load the car with somthing, the car rear axle moves a leaver ,end lets more presure from the master cilinder to the rear weel cilinder's.
when the car is unload ,just car base weight, the presure is limited by this weight presure limiter.

You removed this olsow? if so, you fuk't up real bad the brakes.
The car is not qoaite awsome ,but if you ar cutting down part's .

no no.. i havent removed the weight pressure limiter..

i was talking should i put one like you did in the tests.
i am not sure what to do now..
should i put the bypass assamby and put a plug on that exit on the pump and a plug on the bypass?
i would like to keep this pump and servo... i dont have that much money to buy a new one from ford like you said before..

[Soryn]

check the lines under the car ,where they go, is possible your car have the same circuit as mine, with one weight limiter presure , end, one graviti ball presure limiter .
the second limiter lucks like this, it works fine without it. the important one is the weight presur limiter on the axle.

http://www.aro4x4.net/smf/viewtopic.php?f=5&p=23270

[icemann]

Hi Sorin, I will take some pictures on the weekend until then i would like to ask you few more things..
I am thinking of engine and transmission swap. this transmission that i have has very short gears 4 speed and fair amount of noise and vibration from the transfer case. I am thinking this would be a great project for the summer. 1.8 engine and transmission from a RWD car hooked up to a Lada niva Transfer case maybe.. these are most common in my country. So i`ll keep my diffs and just make new mounts for the engine and transmission... I will not do i by myself but with friends who have garage and rebuild engines mostly on old WV beetles.
Now i have top speed of 85 kph and oil leaks from the transfer case, engine and i think from the oil seal at the flywheel/clutch plate.
also i have play in the shifter, i`ll try to replace the bushing and put another spring from underneath, but still.. In the engine i have changed oil, water pump, spark plugs, cables, upgraded to some sort of electronic ignition but still the distributor is worn, new water hoses and fixed the LPG, also i changed the fuel pump and fixed the carburator. it was leaking from the membrane.. new exhaust but when i oppened the cover on the engine there was rust and my uncle said that some of the parts were worn out.
So what do u think? is something from mercedes or Bmw from an wrecked car or dismantled, there are alot of those in my city, good to be put into the aro...
Basicly i want to be able to use the aro on the mountains but go on long distance locations, like summer vacations end ets.. and somehow i dont feel that this engine and transmission is dependable..
I can see on this forum that there are some swaps that are done but i dont quite understand romanian and it is hard to read even with the english translation.
also i found something like this.
http://www.reklama5.mk/dataImages/adver ... 1f2083.jpg
from MITSUBISHI PAJERO 2.5TD. so maybe this with a disel engine..

[icemann]

also i need to change the front shocks. i had them repaired but they leaked in just few months.
and the back leaf springs are hard, i heard that i can take them to a blacksmith that can make them softer and bit higher like they were when they were new...

[Soryn]

For engine /ghearbox/transfer box , you need to find a engine/transmison transfer box theat in combination ,on the owtput shaft of the transfer box ,they nedd to turn in the same direction like yours like neaw,for not chainghind diferentials. On aro 10 factory mounted 2 tipes of 5 speed ghearboxes end same transfer case, but the 5 speed ghear boxes has the owput shaft turning in the other way, in the end at the drive shafts , movement is clocwise ,sow, they needet to switch the diferential's too,thy manufactured clocwise diferentials (Pinion end ring-ghear).

Your 4 speed diferentials ghear box (3 shafts inside , the 5 speed has 2 shafts) , transfer box, are for anticlocwise rotation sens (i mean anticlocwise from positon of the driver driving the car)

the niva transfer box i's an idea,butt you need to serch for the drive shaft turning direction.

If you wil nott find anticlocwise, you need to change the difs to clockwise.


You chan instal bigher weels , rims end tieres, on the strait you wil gain speed at a lower engine rpm rate.

[icemann]

What do you recomend? is there anything that everybody does to upgrade the engine and transmition? or everybody everybody just changes engine and keeps same transmition?