body corrosion

Presentations,questions,everything...only in english language,please

Moderator: UMMM461

Post Reply
User avatar
Maxim
Membru Devotat
Membru Devotat
Posts: 305
Joined: 18 Oct 2007, 18:16
Location: Russia , Krasnoyarsk city
Contact:

body corrosion

Post by Maxim » 04 May 2008, 16:32

    As could, I am has translated themes " RUGINAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!" and "Solutzie pt problema cu rugina!!!"
My thinks about this theme:
    I want to warn of using of converters of a rust on a ortophosforic acid basis. Such way of a covering -phosfated- was used in autobuilding, but in conditions of garage is difficult to observe many conditions.
I, using such converters (Russia made), "have lost" front wings, front mask, and partially a floor in front part . The reason in the following:
- The body consists of very many small elements, connected by dot welding;
- The elements are connected in lap, one on one, i.e. on the length of a joint there are chinks (between points of welding)
- Despite of processing of joints by mastic, the centers of corrosion begin from welded seams: because of infringements in technology of mastic drawing, temperature differences, mechanical influences, the moisture gets in a joints, the corrosion begins. The corrosion products have large volume and the sheeting quickly collapses. Very much "promotes" this process "compress" from floor coverings.
Also on a floor are absent drain hole.
- And some more such aspect - who thought that the ARO car will be live more than 15 years!
  At processing by acid it is difficult to ensure three conditions:
1- to remove all friable (many layers) a rust
2- to remove completely the remainders of reagent (is especial from joints and closed body cavities)
3- to dry completely the processed place.
Further not help neither what protection - a bit later processed place rusts with huge speed since the remainders of reagent have acid environment. With such corrosion to struggle is almost unreally. The products of such corrosion have large mechanical solidity and simultaneously phenomenal ability to accumulate a moisture. So, as reagent may flow "far", by mechanical way such rusts not always there is an opportunity " to scratch off".
      The recurrence attempts of "struggle" with corrosion have resulted in such ways of the decision of a problem:
- To remove a rust by a mechanical way (it is very convenient by a brush established on electrical drills and the sand-jet gadget), strongly rusted places - simply to cut out;
- Maximally to clear joints between elements of a body;
- primed by a qualitative prime coating with by the antyrust additives (such is made many manufacturers);
- To process joints and latent (internal) cavities by a preparations such as TECTYL, MOVIL  etc.
This moisture-removing, protective, conservating preparations;
- To put protective mastic (I used BODY 910, made in Greece). It very long keeps plasticity, has grey (also white and black) colour (the occurrence of corrosion is visible), if necessary on it it is possible to drawing a paint. Also may used of mastics on bitumen base;
- Gives good results glueing special the bitumen mats (in Russia named as "vibroplast", has thickness of 2-6 mm, has fibres in the structure, is pasted with the help of hot fan, it protect against vibration and noise, area of one sheet 0.7sq.m., is used for tuning of automobiles; I do not think that it is invented in Russia, there should be analogues in other countries;
- It is necessary to establish mud flaps in front and rear;
- I have established plastic protection under front and rear wings;
- On processing of the latent cavities of a body was required about 6 liters of Tectyl, to inaccessible cavities are drilled the hole,  which after are closed by rubber covers;
- The thresholds of a body after processing are closed by rubber covers;
- Also by rubber covers are closed all found ventilate body hole;
- Are made drain holes in a floor for quick drain of water;
  In eight years after repair on a body practically there is no corrosion.


User avatar
alex
Membru legendar
Membru legendar
Posts: 1507
Joined: 12 Mar 2007, 23:16
Location: Bucuresti

Re: body corrosion

Post by alex » 04 May 2008, 18:35

geee, maxim...thank you.
thats a lot of input! I was thinking about the good and evil about mud flaps for front wheels. and then to think that after mending my truck in the bulkhead area i will install these flaps.

on most corrosion points, at wings and top hood of teh cabin, the rust comes from underneath, and it would require massive work to take the whole thing apart and treat.

it seems that actually its tad easier to get a whole body, repair that on teh ground and then swap it with the old one.
chaps here on the forum like tarzy just resorted in doeing this.
bit more tricky for my truck as it seems that most 320 owners will use them to death, not giving on them too easily, hence not much options to find a decent body.
happily mending an Aro 320 D127

User avatar
Maxim
Membru Devotat
Membru Devotat
Posts: 305
Joined: 18 Oct 2007, 18:16
Location: Russia , Krasnoyarsk city
Contact:

Re: body corrosion

Post by Maxim » 05 May 2008, 09:05

Hi Alex. Later I am will made fotos ( on 244 now I am make  the body repair on inside).

User avatar
alex
Membru legendar
Membru legendar
Posts: 1507
Joined: 12 Mar 2007, 23:16
Location: Bucuresti

Re: body corrosion

Post by alex » 05 May 2008, 09:30

were looking forward. photos will break language barriers, the more the better :)
Ill do some on the repairs to come on the 320 and post them as well.
happily mending an Aro 320 D127


User avatar
Maxim
Membru Devotat
Membru Devotat
Posts: 305
Joined: 18 Oct 2007, 18:16
Location: Russia , Krasnoyarsk city
Contact:

Re: body corrosion

Post by Maxim » 05 May 2008, 17:05

Condition of  243
1.plastic protection (the left front wing)
2.body support  (in front of the front door)
3.body support  (behind front door)
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

User avatar
alex
Membru legendar
Membru legendar
Posts: 1507
Joined: 12 Mar 2007, 23:16
Location: Bucuresti

Re: body corrosion

Post by alex » 05 May 2008, 18:16

maxim, mind if i ask what type of bushing u have under the car/
it looks as a bigger type than the original one
also, its a modified post on the body.
so, what type of bushing is that one?
happily mending an Aro 320 D127

User avatar
Maxim
Membru Devotat
Membru Devotat
Posts: 305
Joined: 18 Oct 2007, 18:16
Location: Russia , Krasnoyarsk city
Contact:

Re: body corrosion

Post by Maxim » 06 May 2008, 17:32

244 - front body support and body condition.
from within 4, inside 5
floor cleaning 6,7
Body rubber bushs for 243 was made on order, for "body lift" on 2 inchs.
Body cross-bars in front of the front door and behind the front door was made over again.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

User avatar
Maxim
Membru Devotat
Membru Devotat
Posts: 305
Joined: 18 Oct 2007, 18:16
Location: Russia , Krasnoyarsk city
Contact:

Re: body corrosion

Post by Maxim » 06 May 2008, 17:34

Not the made welding of this place -8- has given to not appear of corrosion (this "the sick place"on the body)
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

User avatar
alex
Membru legendar
Membru legendar
Posts: 1507
Joined: 12 Mar 2007, 23:16
Location: Bucuresti

Re: body corrosion

Post by alex » 06 May 2008, 19:49

i see....
question,
in order to repair the front part was it necessary to remove the wing?
I can see the wing is removed in your photo. On my car one worry would be that the joint between the main body and teh wing is rusted as well and it will get only more complicated once the wing is removed.
happily mending an Aro 320 D127

User avatar
Maxim
Membru Devotat
Membru Devotat
Posts: 305
Joined: 18 Oct 2007, 18:16
Location: Russia , Krasnoyarsk city
Contact:

Re: body corrosion

Post by Maxim » 08 May 2008, 05:20

Yes, necessary, so that to do repair with high quality. From the body will be removed everything , what may come unscrewed (also doors and windows). Body will be removed from the frame. So comfortably to work.You worry about joints? They will be much better after cleaning and coating by the new mastic. 


Post Reply